Ski touring paradise Pyhrn-Priel

The area around the Windischgarsten Valley has long been a popular holiday destination for winter sports enthusiasts. Besides alpine skiing in Hinterstoder and on the Wurzeralm, and leisurely hiking on the Wurbauerkogel, the region has also become a top destination for ski tourers.

Easy access via the Pyhrn Autobahn and reliable snow cover attract winter sports enthusiasts from near and far. Whether in early winter, with powder snow in January, or with spring snow well into April – the Totes Gebirge mountains are always worth a visit.

Come along on a journey to my region – the mountains between Grundlsee and Kleiner Priel – my home mountains.

Text: Roland Buchroithner Images: ALPS/Hati Finsterer

Hiking in the Haggler/Sengsengebirge mountains

Finally... the first snow

With the first snow comes the motivation for everyone to go on their first ski tour. This usually happens at the end of November. I often choose tours with grassy slopes. I'd like to introduce you to the Kleine Scheibe in the Stodertal valley: The tour starts at the former Bärenalm ski area, where the great Hermann Maier used to compete in ski races.

We ascend the fantastic former ski slopes. A varied route continues along a forest road and through the woods until we reach the wide meadows of the Bärenalm. Cozy, privately owned alpine huts and the stunning views of the Stodertal mountains invite you to take a break.

Refreshed, we continued to the Türkenscharte, where we had the choice between the Hirscheck and the Kleine Scheibe. Since the ridge to the Hirscheck often has little snow early in the season, we opted for the summit slope of the Kleine Scheibe.

The days are usually very short at this time of year, so we don't linger too long at the summit. For the descent, we choose the ascent route for skiing reasons, as you can often enjoy great turns on the former ski slope, especially in the lower section.

Looking back towards Frauenkar

Factbox KLEINE SCHEIBE 1,836 m

Approximately one hour by train from the central region of Upper Austria, ascent to 1,200 meters above sea level.

Descents: intermediate (in the upper part), easy (in the lower part via the former ski slope)

Base: Bärenalm parking lot

Our ALPS tips: Get inspiration for more challenging tours later in the season

Guidebook: Ski Touring Guide Pyhrn Priel, 2nd Extended Edition (Stoderegger/Zehetner)

January – the cold time in the Phyrn region!

It's not uncommon for it to get really cold in the valley after the Christmas holidays. If temperatures remain below 0°C for several days in a row while the sun still shines, the snowpack structure changes during the clear, cold nights.

Especially on shady slopes, the snow often transforms into large crystals. Almost like powder snow, this is relatively easy to ski on. However, beware when this type of snow is covered with fresh snow – the situation changes in a very short time from relatively safe to extremely dangerous. In this case, it's best to wait until the snow conditions have improved...

At these times of year, somewhat more challenging ski tours with short ridge climbs are often a welcome change of pace. One of my favorite routes of this kind is the southeast ridge to the Warscheneck, not least because of its relatively easy accessibility via the Wurzeralm ski area.

From the mountain station at Frauenkar, we quickly cross out of the ski area and find ourselves in a completely different world. The rugged ridges and unique karst formations of the Totes Gebirge (Dead Mountains) immediately evoke a true alpine feeling. Right from the start, it becomes clear whether this tour is even feasible. One of the key sections follows the steep slope leading up to the Widerlechnerstein. It is absolutely essential to pay attention to safe conditions here; a misjudgment of the situation can have serious consequences.

We ascend the steep slope in a series of switchbacks; the conditions are perfect, but we proceed cautiously nonetheless. A mistake here is simply not an option. We then traverse to the start of the actual via ferrata. The ridge narrows considerably towards the top and becomes increasingly constricted. Depending on the snow conditions, we'll unstrap our skis sooner or later and pack them onto our backpacks. Of course, we keep our crampons readily accessible and will use them before things get uncomfortable.

The ascent begins on foot along the southeast ridge, which is never difficult but always exposed. When the steel cables are clear, the climb is a real pleasure, allowing you to truly enjoy the views down into the valley below. Reaching the summit, the panorama is incredibly impressive. For the descent, we've chosen the ski instructor's route into the Brunnsteinerkar cirque. The sun has been shining on the south-facing slopes for some time now, so we find the first spring snow of the winter here. This descent is strongly discouraged in icy or hard-packed conditions. Here, too, we have to take off our skis for a short stretch and trudge down. Afterwards, we enjoy fantastic slopes in the Brunnsteinerkar cirque, and finally, we traverse out to the mountain station at Frauenkar.

What a fantastic tour, in these great conditions!

Factbox Warscheneck 2,389 m

Approximately 1 hour by train from the central region of Upper Austria, in the Wurzeralm ski area

Ascent approx. 600 m elevation gain, over challenging, steep terrain. Descents: difficult (in the upper section), only for those with confident skiing abilities.

Nissen base: Wurzeralm parking lot

Our ALPS tips: the ALPS mountain guides ensure the greatest possible safety on challenging ski tours.

Guidebook: Ski Touring Guide Pyhrn Priel, 2nd Extended Edition (Stoderegger/Zehetner)

Info: www.lawine.at

Powder snow in the Garstnertal valley

The weather gods have been kind to us these past few days, with frequent snowfall and a relatively relaxed avalanche situation thanks to the warmer temperatures. I'd like to show you that you don't always need the longest and highest routes to have a fantastic day of touring.

The decision today will be made in favor of the Schafkogel in the touring area around the Hengstpass.

From the parking lot by the road, the trail soon descends gently to the Red Cross Chapel and continues along the forest road until it reaches the edge of the woods. Now comes the real highlight of the tour: the steep north-facing slope through mostly sparse forest, until you reach a broad ridge at the top. I frequently try to assess the actual snow conditions on the slope.

The conditions today are fantastic, and we're already looking forward to the descent. We'll make a short climb through a breathtaking winter landscape to the summit cross. At the top, we'll pack our skins into our backpacks and quickly begin our descent. Just as we suspected, it's simply brilliant today... this is what we live for!

Factbox Schafkogel/Hochsur 1,550 m

Max. 1.5 hours by car from the central region of Upper Austria

Ascent approx. 700 m elevation gain, mostly steeper forest terrain

Descents: intermediate, good skiing technique through the forest is a prerequisite for this tour

Base: Stallion Pass

Our ALPS tips: the touring area around the Hengstpass offers many shorter and easier tour destinations in a stunning landscape.

Guidebook: Ski Touring Guide Pyhrn Priel, 2nd Extended Edition (Stoderegger/Zehetner), Ski Touring Atlas Austria East, Schall Publishing House (Schall, Mokreis)

Spring fever within the walls of Hall

The weather in the Windischgarsten Valley has been fantastic these past few days. The temperatures have been very pleasant, and the snow-covered mountains are really motivating me for some great spring hikes. And there are quite a few of them... The "Witches' Tower" in the Haller Mauern above the Rosskar immediately comes to mind as a destination.

We set off early in the morning to ensure the best possible conditions for our descent. We quickly check our backpacks; today, crampons are absolutely essential. From the parking lot to the Admonter Haus, we first hike along the forest road into the valley. The steep north faces of the Haller Mauern look very imposing from down here.

The route towards the upper Rosskar is varied and requires challenging navigation. Several switchbacks lead us up the wide cirque towards the ski depot. A strong wind is blowing here today, and since the ridge is quite exposed and demanding, we decide to forgo the summit. We want to enjoy the fantastic descent through the cirque we just climbed.

Great, wide slopes with a consistent gradient make this ski tour a dream tour that you won't soon forget.

Factbox Hexenturm 2,172 m

Max. 1.5 hours by car from the central region of Upper Austria

Ascent approx. 1,500 meters in altitude, challenging and consistently steep terrain.

Downhill runs: challenging; good and safe skiing technique is essential.

Base: Admonter Haus parking lot, Hengstpass, direction Unterlaussa

Our ALPS tips: many challenging spring destinations in the immediate vicinity

Guidebook: Ski Touring Guide Pyhrn Priel, 2nd Extended Edition (Stoderegger/Zehetner)

The Great Priel, King of the Dead Mountains

From afar, the Großer Priel mountain towers over the Stodertal valley. Spring has already firmly taken hold of the valley floor, but thanks to the snowy winter, the mountains still offer excellent ski touring conditions. The Prielschutzhaus mountain hut, perfectly suited as a base, is already open, and so we decide on this tour.

We set off on Friday afternoon from the parking lot in Hinterstoder to the material cable car for the Priel mountain hut. Since the trail was already snow-free, we had arranged for the transport of our equipment beforehand. It's simply easier without skis and with light luggage . In the evening, we enjoyed the hut's excellent cuisine and went to bed early. Tomorrow is an early start! Because we were concerned about our safety and for great skiing conditions, we were out at first light. We enjoyed the warming rays of the sun and climbed the magnificent ski slopes towards Kühkar. It was already clear that we would have perfect conditions for the descent.

The trail then climbs steeply to the Brotfallscharte pass; this section is also the crux of the tour. Afterwards, the terrain levels out somewhat, and the magnificent view across the plateau of the Totes Gebirge mountains and further towards the Dachstein massif never fails to impress me. The summit ridge is also pleasantly manageable today. Thanks to the abundant snow, we can ski almost to the summit – that's certainly not something to take for granted.

We enjoy the view, and the anticipation of the fresh spring snow doesn't allow us to linger too long at the summit. Perfect spring snow across wide slopes fills us with pure elation; perhaps this is already our last descent of the season. It would certainly be a fantastic finale.

And the ski touring winter is once again showing its best side:

Our skis glide effortlessly on the perfect surface. Without expending any force and relying heavily on feel, we unfortunately reach our starting point all too soon.

Arriving at the Priel refuge, we enjoy coffee and cake on the sun terrace. The material cable car is, of course, very welcome again, allowing us to descend into the valley with light luggage. At the parking lot, we look back one last time at the summit we reached today. "What fantastic ski mountains we have here," I think to myself once more.

Factbox Großer Priel 2,515 m

Max. 1 hour by car from the central region of Upper Austria

Ascent approx. 2,000 m, challenging and long ski tour – with overnight stay at Prielschutz around 1,000 m elevation gain.

Descents: challenging, partly steep to very steep slopes, optimal conditions are a prerequisite

Base: Parking lot at the Prielschutzhaus, Hinterstoder

Our ALPS tips: proper time management is absolutely essential; there is a high risk of avalanches in steep terrain at too late a time of day; for maximum enjoyment, spend a night at the Prielschutzhaus mountain hut, start early the next day and enjoy the stunning sunrise.

Guidebook: Ski Touring Guide Pyhrn Priel, 2nd Extended Edition (Stoderegger/Zehetner), Ski Touring Atlas Austria East, Schall Publishing House (Schall, Mokreis)

Info: www.prielschutzhaus.at

In spring, while climbing at the Hengstpass, I often gaze towards the Haller Mauern, searching for new and exciting destinations. There are always new – and above all, fantastic – places to explore. My fingers are slowly regaining their strength, and I'm already secretly looking forward to next winter in the Phyrn region...