FERRATA - traveling on iron paths!

Flo Scheimpflug conducted a casual interview with ALPS friend Christian Piccolruaz "Picco" about building via ferratas. Here's his review:

Via ferratas are a trend of the times. They are enjoying ever-increasing popularity and their number is constantly rising. This is no wonder, since they offer many people the opportunity to immerse themselves in alpine rock worlds,

would otherwise remain inaccessible.

Anyone who wants to experience steep, exposed walls from the “inside” can do so by embarking on a Via Ferrata, the original Italian name for a climbing route that used to be called the “iron path.”

Knows about iron - Picco!

Christian “Picco” Piccolruaz, born in Innsbruck in 1970 and now living in the Stubai Valley, has been involved in the planning, construction, maintenance and support of via ferratas as well as the construction of special trails such as mountain bike routes, among others, for over 12 years.

It's hard to imagine a better experience profile than his. "Picco" graduated from the Technical College for Mechanical Engineering, completed a degree in geology, and is also a state-certified mountain and ski guide – a near-ideal combination. In short: "Picco" is a man who knows a thing or two about via ferratas. We wanted to know more about what really matters when building modern via ferratas, so we asked him a few questions.

Spectacle hiking on the Donnerkogel

Is there a "development" in via ferrata construction? What distinguishes older via ferratas from newer ones?

The most significant developments are in terms of safety. Older routes often lack safety standards because there were no construction guidelines. Today, via ferratas are built according to precise guidelines, so serious construction errors can virtually be ruled out.

What innovations are there in this regard?

A lot has changed in terms of technology. Firstly, clamp anchors are used instead of eye anchors; secondly, the anchors are galvanized and have a large diameter. Furthermore, high-strength composite mortar is used instead of quick-setting mortar.

Sunrise on the Schultersteig/Dachstein

Where do you see the biggest problems with the current via ferrata boom?

Some via ferrata climbers believe they can push themselves to their limits on a via ferrata. This is still false. A fall on a via ferrata is always extremely dangerous.

How easy should it be for people to climb a wall? Are there any limits for you? What skills do you think via ferrata climbers should have?

Via ferratas should have few handholds and footholds, yet be accessible to many people. Extreme via ferratas should be the exception.

Which of your projects are you particularly proud of?

The management of the Innsbruck via ferrata is the legacy of Hannes Gasser, the founder of the Innsbruck Alpine School.

Which via ferratas would you still like to do?

A winter via ferrata that takes snowboarders and freeskiers to the best gullies and couloirs in my favorite mountain range. I don't want to reveal any more details at the moment :-)

Which via ferrata that you didn't build would you most recommend?

I think the trails in the Ötztal are extremely worthwhile!

Which of your climbs do you recommend most?

The most beautiful panorama is definitely on the way to the Brandjochspitze above Innsbruck!

What are the biggest problems you encounter with a new project?

There's the poor rock quality on the one hand, and the poor accessibility on the other. Some climbs are extremely long, which isn't necessarily ideal, as it leads to increased damage from snow pressure and lightning strikes.

Can you build a via ferrata anywhere?

Theoretically, a via ferrata can be built anywhere the rock quality allows. However, each new via ferrata must be individually assessed to determine whether it makes sense to build a new one.

Dear Picco, thank you for the interview!

You can meet Picco on his bike, on the ice, or anywhere else in the mountains.

Many ALPSinists know Picco from the ALPS ice climbing opening, guided tours with our guests while ice climbing.

The ALPS TOP 5 via ferratas:

1. Amon Via Ferrata/Dachstein – best via ferrata in high alpine surroundings

2. Johann via ferrata - a real blast over the south face

3. Priel via ferrata – the longest in the Alps

4. Stuibenfall via ferrata in Ötztal – refreshing and well-built

5. ARCO Via Ferrata Rio Salagoni - great via ferrata in Arco at Castel Drena

You can find all ALPS via ferrata offers at https://www.alpsclimbing.com/ferrata